Bad Ass Cars
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How come you don't list exact power ratings for your engines?

First of all, 99% o the power ratings you see in magazines or on crate motors are bogus numbers. I haven't seen any of those engines live up to the power ratings they claim to make. And contrary to what many people think when they say "dyno's don't lie". Uh, yes they do, and usually MOST of the time they ARE lying! You can manipulate a dyno to read anything you want it to read by screwing with the input data going into the D pack. Any good / honest dyno shop will attest to this.

The reason we don't list specific power ratings with any particular engine we build is because we don't have any pre-built engines to give a power rating on. In other words, EVERY engine we build is custom designed and tailored for YOUR specific needs. With that, we don't know what compression ratio we'll be using, or what cam profile or heads we'll be using ahead of time because we don't know what you need or want until you contact us and let us know. None of the engines you see on our site existed before-hand. The reason we do this is so we can build ANYTHING you want.

What we provide when you ask for a price is a "base line" engine with a HP rating  that this engine is comfortable making and most importantly HANDLING! As it says in another one of our Tech Tips, "Horsepower is cheap, strength and quality cost money". We won't build a "cheap" 500HP engine with "cheap" components because it WILL fail. We didn't get our great reputation for building weak engines that fail. On the same note, we wouldn't want to sell you a $10,000 engine that only makes 400HP. That is simply overkill and a waste of money on parts you didn't need. 

On our nitrous ready engines and our blower engines, the reason we give a wide variance of power ratings should be obvious. With either one of those power adders, it's contingent upon how much nitrous you are going to be running, or how much blower boost you want to run. Obviously the more blower boost you run, or the more nitrous you feed into the engine, the more power the engine's going to make. So there's going to be a pretty wide range of power possibilities with either one of these types of engines.

We'll give you a power rating that we know the engine is capable of making, and is capable of "safely" handling without breaking things the first time you hit the streets or the track. Anyone can bolt-on a Vortech or a BDS blower on their stock engine and pump-up the boost to about 14 psi, and the engine WILL make around 600+HP, but don't expect it to last very long, because the engine isn't strong enough, or specifically designed to handle that kind of heat and cylinder pressure. It's the exact same thing for nitrous engines. It's a no brainer to bolt-on a NOS Cheater system and put the 250HP jets in, but when (not "if", but "when") the engine fails, it's because it simply couldn't handle the power it was making, and an engine like that isn't worth a damn.

The first thing that happens when engines fail from either of these power adders, is people start blaming the nitrous or the blower for "blowing-up" their engine, when the reality was, the engine wasn't built strong enough, and it wasn't specifically designed for either of these systems, so failure was eminent anyway. We don't build engines like that. If one of our engines is set-up for a supercharger or for nitrous, you can bet your ass it's built strong enough to handle it, and that it's designed to accommodate such high heat situations, high cylinder pressures and high stresses these things do to engines. To put it in a nutshell, when you buy a BAD ASS engine, you can KNOW that the engine you get is designed to make, and withstand the power ratings we gave it.

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