This all depends on what you're doing with the engine. There's no substitute for roller cams period. The name of the game is flow.. Heads don't flow if the valves are shut. Roller cams have a lightning fast ramp speed. The valves snap open and slam shut much faster than flat tappet cams which means the valves are open for a longer period of time. While a slower ramped cam, like a solid or hydraulic, is beginning to open the valve, the steep lobes of a roller cam (in retrospect) already have its valve wide open, thus more flow into the cylinder. On the same note, the slower ramped cam needs to start closing the valve, and while it's closing, the roller cam is still wide open and still flowing until the very last second and SNAP! It slams shut. The aggressive profile and ramp (lobe) speed of a roller cam also has its drawbacks. A higher lift and faster ramp speed needs stiffer valve springs. Stiffer valve springs require screw-in studs or you'll rip the stock, pressed-in studs right out of the head. Stiffer springs also increase the load on the push rods, so heavy duty push rods are needed. High lift cams add more movement and friction to the rocker arms, so roller rockers are pretty much a must. Most billet steel roller cams require using an aluminum/bronze distributor gear which is very soft and doesn't last very long (a month maybe?). Just like Newton's law, for every action, there is a reaction, engines are the same way. Increase the load in one place and you'll surely increase the load in other places.
Technology and metallurgy are changing. It use to be that a hydraulic cam wouldn't be very good for a hot street or a mild race engine when in fact, they perform very well! As long as good matching valve springs are used with a good quality set of lifters, there's no reason a hydraulic cam can't do well on the street or the track and if someone tells you different, have them tell that to the guys running hydraulic cams at well over 7500 RPM in 11 and 12 second street cars!
Solid lifter cams are always a good choice for a hot street or race engine. They usually have faster ramps (lobes) than hydraulic cams but not as fast as roller cams. They also usually need a stouter spring than a hydraulic cam but not nearly as stiff as a roller cam. They're kind of the middle of the road between the two. Forget about those lame wives tales about solid lifters always going out of adjustment! That's just not true! The ONLY way the adjustment (lash) can change is if something is either wearing out or going bad, period! If a rocker stud starts pulling out, the lash will increase. If the tip of the valve is getting hammered or mushroomed, the lash will increase. That's what lash caps are made for. If the tip or the cup of the rocker arm starts to wear out, the lash will increase. If a push rod bends or wears out one (or both) of the tips, the lash will increase. If the lifter is getting cupped or the cam is going flat, the lash will increase. If a valve seat "sinks" or recesses, then the valve is actually lifting or sitting higher, the lash will decrease. No matter how you slice it, if a solid lifter cam keeps going out of adjustment, something is seriously wrong! Most of the time it was just a wives tale being spread by someone who's probably never even ran a solid lifter cam or had a piece of junk engine that was falling apart.